London Collections: Men Day 2 Highlights

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The second day of LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN was a mixed bag in my opinion, whilst some designers showed some boundary-pushing collections, others were rather bland. My three favourite collections, however are featured below.




This collection from CHRISTOPHER SHANNON was slightly more toned down than his previous offerings, and seemed to be aimed less specifically at the East London market. That being said, Shannon's design aesthetic was firmly stamped on the collection - key pieces included leather tailed shirts and hybrid parkas - still very Christopher Shannon but slightly less streetwear-inspired. I also loved the half-and-half comic prints on knitwear and his use of colour blocking.





An ode to minimalism, you would be forgiven for brushing past MARGARET HOWELL's AW'13 collection due to the print-heavy avant garde shows this LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN. But there is always something so effortlessly stylish about Howell's clothing and I would easily wear most of the looks from this show. The beret (also seen from YMC this season) is a welcome addition and is surprisingly cool when teamed with Howell's wonderfully simple creations, but it will remain to be seen whether this trend will take off next Autumn.





JONATHAN SAUNDERS' collection was reassuringly colourful for autumn / winter, with orange and cobalt blues being teamed well with more muted tones of navy and mustard. There was also a large focus on print, with all-over prints on tees and shirts, as well as colour blocking and panelling used on outerwear. His use of acid bright ombres was also admirable and panels of patent leather made for an interesting play on texture. Some very covetable pieces from this collection indeed.

London Collections: Men Day 1 Highlights

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So the second LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN finished this week, and with it came a lot of very exciting menswear for AW'13. I was unfortunately unable to attend as it nicely coincides with our busiest time at work, so I spent this week completely nocturnal re-merchandising our store through the nights. It's a glamorous life... But enough about that, here are my highlights from Day 1 of LCM.



MEADHAM KIRCHOFF showed some surprisingly simple and staple pieces of menswear, including breton stripes and plaid shirts - however the boys mixed these in with their more trademark 'kitschness' for the true Meadham Kirchoff vibe. Shirts and coats came with elaborate embellishment while Victorian lace and cut-out shirting gave the collection a modern-day Oliver Twist feeling, which was aided by the bin bags surrounding the models. Homeless chic if you will.




The FASHION EAST menswear installations contained some of the most exciting designers that are working in London in my opinion - the juxtaposition of classic British tailoring brands coming from Saville Row and the new generation of avant garde designers is what is really driving London's fashion voice right now. Within FASHION EAST, particlar favourites of mine were JOSEPH TURVEY who showed a fusion of streetwear and casual tailoring emblazoned with dalmation prints (the models were even holding real dalmation puppies, which is never a bad thing); BOBBY ABLEY whose space-inspired streetwear collection incorporated metallics and clever layering for an air of futurism; and KIT NEALE who once again showed a print-focused collection, this time taking inspiration from British pubs and the greasy spoon caffs.




Finally, RICHARD NICOLL showed a minimal and sleek collection with a hint of futurism that is both modern and wearable. Head to toe prints and tonal outfitting in a cool colour palette gave scope for a play on texture and silhouette, with sleek fabrics complimented by more rugged knits and outerwear. Nicoll colour-graded his looks from greys to cool blues then to a finale of intense orange from clothing down to the accessories. I need to get my hands on an orange fisherman beanie asap...

Event: TOMS Give Shop

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Those goody-two-shoes at TOMS are well-known for their charitable endeavours, including the pioneering 'one-for-one' scheme which gifts a pair of shoes for every pair purchased to children in need. This Christmas the brand has gone one further and is launching the TOMS Give Shop - a pop-up space in London's Brick Lane that aims to spread their core message of giving. Guests will be taken on a journey through five interactive areas that are designed with this message in mind.

A D.I.Y. crafts area allows visitors to create homemade Christmas cards; the 'Smiles' area features a photobooth where guests can take pictures and upload to social media; and the 'Knowledge' section features a reading lounge and book exchange. There will also be live music over the period from emerging artists and a retail space where the TOMS range can be purchased as well as wares from local artisans. To get into the Christmas spirit of giving, join TOMS at The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane from Friday 14th - Sunday 16th December.

Lazy Oaf Autumn / Winter '12 Lookbook

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Known for their crazy, illustration-inspired pop art clothing, Lazy Oaf have released their new Autumn / Winter '12 lookbooks. Trademark graphic prints are comedic, with skulls placed over boobs or all-over prints in the form of cartoon dogs, rainbows and cartoon arms. These graphics aid in the retro styling of the lookbook and a vibe of the 90's is definitely present...children of the noughties may not understand. But we were there, we know. Check out the full collection at LAZY OAF or pop into their Soho store. Viva Forever.

London Collections: Men Day 3 Highlights

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The third and final day of the London Collections: Men was filled with impressive and diverse design talent and showcased the wide range of fashion voices which London has become famous for, but there were a few designers that stood out for me - for the right reasons. J. W. Anderson showed a directional collection that played with the concept of masculine and feminine clothing, and that which is appropriate for men to wear. Floral lace was used for shirts and trousers and came in white, lime and sky blue while suiting was eastern-inspired, worn with nothing underneath. This juxtaposition of menswear versus womenswear has become synonymous with Anderson and was also touched on by other designers this season. It remains to be seen whether we will all be wearing sheer lace next Spring / Summer, but you never know.

Richard Nicoll's must-anticipated first menswear collection was a showcase of his own personal style...in Nicoll's own words 'signature colour and clean lines'. The key word here definitely is 'clean', with sporty separates coming in high-shine materials and tonal colour palettes - the white-on-white looks have a great luxe finish and the Marni-esque yellow raincoat and shorts combo provide a pop of colour. Loose layering in rich royal blues look expensive yet effortless and the only print in an otherwise minimal collection comes from a two-piece in marine blue...dreamy.

Meadham Kirchoff have made a name for themselves in recent seasons for putting on a show...their Spring / Summer '12 womenswear show was an extravaganza of candy coloured nostalgia, and their most recent menswear collection carries on that theme, although with slightly different execution. 'Bedsit chic', if there is such a thing - the collection references 90s street culture and grungy Cobain-esque models were sprawled in their own filth (well, not quite) donning print-clashing fantastical outfits and dip-dyed hair. Meadham Kirchoff also dabbled with feminine touches, introducing skirts for men and coordinating the model's hair to their clothes to create a very unique look.

A refreshingly different collection from Christopher Raeburn displayed his talent for creating interesting and innovative outwerwear, playing with conventions and tradition. Original yet functional, Raeburn experiments with materials to create practical outerwear that will also satisfy men's fashion needs - the silver foil jacket is a standout piece, as well as hybrid parkas and bomber jackets.

Image Source: LONDON COLLECTIONS.

London Collections: Men Day 2 Highlights

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The second day of the London Collections: Men was filled with edgy streetwear, intense print and playful use of fabrications and the collections shown were just as strong as Day 1's...if not more so. I'll kick off my highlights with one of my favourite designers - Christopher Shannon. who did what he does best and showed his signature twist on streetwear that is both interesting and new, and instantly recogniseable at the same time. Shannon manages to play with texture and construction, using bright colours, patching and fraying whilst also keeping a masculine edge to his sportswear. Embellishment also helps to keep the collection light and summery without being too feminine.

James Long showed a much bolder statement with his Spring / Summer '13 collection than previously seen, with wide-legged shorts in dark tweeds and leather and white shirting with geometric embellishment. The models were striking, with slicked back hair and black lensed shades and had a hint of The Matrix about them. Long's signature knitwear was less shaggy this season, and graphic shapes were woven into monochrome sweaters adding to the tough aesthetic. There were also leather man-clutches, which are becoming more and more frequent on the catwalks each season - these James Long creations could tempt me out of my anti-clutch mood that I have been in for some time. Maybe.

Another streetwear collection came from Katie Eary, who gave her trademark luxurious touch to the genre. Described by Eary as 'California skate', the print-laden collection featured a rich colour palette of gold, purple and aquamarine and created a glamorous contrast between her's and other designer's streetwear collections this season. Prints were aquatic and kaleiodoscopic, featuring octopus tentacles, serene water and schools of fish. Aquarium chic never looked so good, or existed before. One of the two.

Every season, the MAN roster design talent seems to get stronger and stronger, and the tried and tested trio of Shaun Samson, Astrid Andersen and Agi & Sam have truly outdone themselves this time around. One of my most anticipated shows season to season, this crop of London designers are doing our city proud. Shaun Samson's signature oversized streetwear was emblazoned with giant kittens, and lurex knitwear and super-long silver embellished shorts which provided an exciting take on the genre. Slouchy two pieces in red and blue check were drenched in 90's references but brought up to date with sheer hoodys and silver sandals, which were teamed with white socks. Yes people, sandals and socks are back - you can thank Shaun Samson for that.

Agi & Sam once again showed a plethora of print, this time with nostalgic references from tropical florals, to the models' 70s moustaches. Prints were coordinated, with suiting in matching floral prints, or macs with contrast sleeves teamed with floral shorts. Suiting was once again the focal points of the collection, with ever more extravagant prints such as pixellated harbour or beach scenes. Briefcases and sandals completed the Miami business man vibe, in a good way of course.

Astrid Andersen also showed a signature streetwear collection, fusing masculine and feminine elements to create a special mixture. This juxtaposition has become her calling card, and it is a testament to her talent that she can combine sheer embroidered lace and nylon tracksuits and still create a super-masculine collection. Fur was also used to great effect on basketball vests, and super-shiny wet look hoodys and sweat pants came in chartreuse and crimson, again toying with the masculine/feminine relationship in her aesthetic.

Image Source: LONDON COLLECTIONS; GQ.