Monday, 27 February 2012

London Fashion Week Menswear Day Roundup

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Although it feels like LFW is long gone, and Paris has its turn tomorrow, I've only just got round to catching up on all the action. So here is my roundup of menswear day - I'll try to keep it brief.

First on the agenda are the outstanding collections at the MAN show. Agi & Sam showed that print doesn't have to be confined to Spring/Summer, with printed suits and coats in brightly coloured digitals and large-scale checks. The matching print trend is set to continue into Autumn/Winter but this time in heavy wools rather than the cottons and silks of the current season. Also look out for the duck print suit - I can't think of an occasion to wear such an outfit but it's always nice to have one as a backup...

Also on the MAN roster was Astrid Andersen. Street-cast models wore Astrid's now trademarked twist on classic street and sports wear, with sheer and metallic materials in silver and pink providing a feminine edge to traditionally masculine apparel. Fur coat, jogging bottoms and no knicker combos give the collection a luxe elements, but the addition of toe-hugging footwear makes me feel a bit uncomfortable. They look like hands.

Up next is Shaun Samson, who has been firmly on my radar since his Spring/Summer '12 collection last year. Samson also succeeds in re-inventing streetwear, and he attempted this season to masculinise the use of fur, which I am very much on board with. Massively oversized, basketball player silhouettes were key, and sweatshirts with fur slogans or graphics emblazoned on the front were stand-out pieces from the collection. The dungaree has also made a comeback, in jersey and cotton instead of the traditional denim.

Knitwear king James Long has done it again for Autumn/Winter. Incredibly intricate arran knits and wide-leg velvet trousers will no doubt keep us all warm next season. Matching jumper and scarf combos will be a big trend for knitwear, with Long providing his take on the matching trend from this season. I personally love the cardigan tucked into trousers look, complete with large belt.

In case you hadn't noticed, I'm a big fan of print and this thirst has been quenched by Matthew Miller. Once again showing that print doesn't have to be confined to the warmer season, Miller shows matching printed suits which conjure up the transition through seasons - the colours of Autumnal leaves transition to vivid Summer shades before dulling down to whites and greys representing Winter months.


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