London Collections: Men Day 1 Highlights

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So the second LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN finished this week, and with it came a lot of very exciting menswear for AW'13. I was unfortunately unable to attend as it nicely coincides with our busiest time at work, so I spent this week completely nocturnal re-merchandising our store through the nights. It's a glamorous life... But enough about that, here are my highlights from Day 1 of LCM.



MEADHAM KIRCHOFF showed some surprisingly simple and staple pieces of menswear, including breton stripes and plaid shirts - however the boys mixed these in with their more trademark 'kitschness' for the true Meadham Kirchoff vibe. Shirts and coats came with elaborate embellishment while Victorian lace and cut-out shirting gave the collection a modern-day Oliver Twist feeling, which was aided by the bin bags surrounding the models. Homeless chic if you will.




The FASHION EAST menswear installations contained some of the most exciting designers that are working in London in my opinion - the juxtaposition of classic British tailoring brands coming from Saville Row and the new generation of avant garde designers is what is really driving London's fashion voice right now. Within FASHION EAST, particlar favourites of mine were JOSEPH TURVEY who showed a fusion of streetwear and casual tailoring emblazoned with dalmation prints (the models were even holding real dalmation puppies, which is never a bad thing); BOBBY ABLEY whose space-inspired streetwear collection incorporated metallics and clever layering for an air of futurism; and KIT NEALE who once again showed a print-focused collection, this time taking inspiration from British pubs and the greasy spoon caffs.




Finally, RICHARD NICOLL showed a minimal and sleek collection with a hint of futurism that is both modern and wearable. Head to toe prints and tonal outfitting in a cool colour palette gave scope for a play on texture and silhouette, with sleek fabrics complimented by more rugged knits and outerwear. Nicoll colour-graded his looks from greys to cool blues then to a finale of intense orange from clothing down to the accessories. I need to get my hands on an orange fisherman beanie asap...

London Collections: Men Day 3 Highlights

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The third and final day of the London Collections: Men was filled with impressive and diverse design talent and showcased the wide range of fashion voices which London has become famous for, but there were a few designers that stood out for me - for the right reasons. J. W. Anderson showed a directional collection that played with the concept of masculine and feminine clothing, and that which is appropriate for men to wear. Floral lace was used for shirts and trousers and came in white, lime and sky blue while suiting was eastern-inspired, worn with nothing underneath. This juxtaposition of menswear versus womenswear has become synonymous with Anderson and was also touched on by other designers this season. It remains to be seen whether we will all be wearing sheer lace next Spring / Summer, but you never know.

Richard Nicoll's must-anticipated first menswear collection was a showcase of his own personal style...in Nicoll's own words 'signature colour and clean lines'. The key word here definitely is 'clean', with sporty separates coming in high-shine materials and tonal colour palettes - the white-on-white looks have a great luxe finish and the Marni-esque yellow raincoat and shorts combo provide a pop of colour. Loose layering in rich royal blues look expensive yet effortless and the only print in an otherwise minimal collection comes from a two-piece in marine blue...dreamy.

Meadham Kirchoff have made a name for themselves in recent seasons for putting on a show...their Spring / Summer '12 womenswear show was an extravaganza of candy coloured nostalgia, and their most recent menswear collection carries on that theme, although with slightly different execution. 'Bedsit chic', if there is such a thing - the collection references 90s street culture and grungy Cobain-esque models were sprawled in their own filth (well, not quite) donning print-clashing fantastical outfits and dip-dyed hair. Meadham Kirchoff also dabbled with feminine touches, introducing skirts for men and coordinating the model's hair to their clothes to create a very unique look.

A refreshingly different collection from Christopher Raeburn displayed his talent for creating interesting and innovative outwerwear, playing with conventions and tradition. Original yet functional, Raeburn experiments with materials to create practical outerwear that will also satisfy men's fashion needs - the silver foil jacket is a standout piece, as well as hybrid parkas and bomber jackets.

Image Source: LONDON COLLECTIONS.